There are loads of exterior joinery types, in New Zealand, most commonly Aluminium joinery.
I have also put in solid timber joinery, iron fireproof commercial joinery, and on one job UVPCplastic joinery - this is more common in the Uk it's a plastic-type product similar to what sprouting is usually made of here.
The job where I remember putting the most joinery in was the modular house job I did for Alpha, where we built them in the yard, we fitted all the joinery for those 5 houses and also the Best Start Whangarei job in Kensignton, I put in most of those windows including some interior ones and some fireproof steel type ones.
Installation
First, you have to build the window, it is best practice to allow at least 5 mils each way for movement and fitting this will have pef rod and foam and be sealed later, a window or door frame will usually have under studs or trimming studs a full stud either side, a sill at the bottom and a lintel on top, the lintel is sometimes L.V.L... above the lintel are jack studs.
You can now cut your paper in and fold around the sill or if no paper is installed and just R.A.B the sill will usually get rabbed, flashing tape is then put in... as per manufacturers instructions and window details. Flashing tape is a kind of membrane adhesive tape. Sometimes they will make you flash the whole window but usually, it is 200 on the top corners and the whole bottom run or something like that it varies on the different windows and products so best to check. Often battens will run down the side of the jamb a gap will be left at the bottom where the sill will slide under.
When windows arrive on-site, carry safely to as close as is practical to the opening. Store on dunnage and strap back to something. Sometimes windows need to be fitted so joiners can take accurate flashing and iron measurements, in these cases the window is fitted temporary and removed. In other cases, some flashings will need to be fitted first before the window goes in. Also cavity systems and brick are different refer to the BCITO books, branz, manufactures specs for which exact method.
You place the window in by taking it outside through the opening and sliding back into right spacing usually ten mil past framing to allow for gib, a typical ruler can be used as a ten mil packer. Then one should plumb and level the window before screwing in. One screw in each corner on the sides is usually ok for smaller windows. Use window packers to get level.
once right, pef road should be used to fill any void and then expanding foam is put in for an air seal around and cut off once dry now the rest of flashing system can now be installed sometimes cladding will need to go in before flashing.
elements of window
Doors are fitted much like interior doors and much like windows the hinge side should be plummed first. They usually sit on a wanz bar.
When framing for a garage one must always remember to nog for the motor casing fixing I've seen people forget about this a couple of times, they are usually fitted by the manufacturer but I have put in a sectional type door as long as you start straight and true they go together fairly simply.
The common waterproofing and installation components of windows are sill support bar, metal head flashing, sill flashing, cavity closer, jamb flashing, and pef road and expanding foam.
The common finishing trim elements for timber joinery are:
facings
scribers
plugs
and sill trim
The way I do scribers is to pin a length to the window with a finishing gun, I then square in the bottom and top of each weatherboard and use an offcut of the weatherboard to mark the profile. I then cut all the cuts on a table saw cut the scriber to length and pre-drill some jolt head nail holes. I pin the scriber on with the finishing gun and fix in real nails after, punching them in to make it easier for the painter.
All cut surfaces must be primed before fixing.
here's some examples of exterior joinery I have worked on 
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